Key Takeaways
- As the oldest gemstone in the world, pearls can be traced back to 2000 BC. They symbolize wealth, faith, love and fortune.
- Pearl formation is a defense mechanism of oysters. It takes many years for a pearl to fully develop and be ready to be harvested.
- Natural pearls and cultured pearls are the two main types, depending on the cultivation method. Among cultured pearls, Tahitian pearls stand out for their mysterious black color. Where does this "black" color come from? Let's explore it in this article!
The Origin of Pearls
Pearls, known as the “treasure of the sea,” symbolize elegance and sophistication. These versatile gems have been used in jewelry for centuries and come in a variety of shapes, colors, and sizes. Beyond their aesthetic appeal, pearls represent perfection, love, and fortune.
Humans have been discovering and using pearls for millennia, with the earliest accounts dating back over 4,000 years. Additionally, pearls have inspired countless stories and myths across various cultures. Despite the diversity of accounts, one universal truth remains: pearls were among the most valuable gems in the world at the time.
The ancient Egyptians considered pearls to be symbols of eternity and royal possessions. They buried them with their pharaohs for the afterlife. To win a bet with Mark Antony, in which she claimed she could consume the wealth of a kingdom in a single meal, Cleopatra dissolved a pearl in a cup of wine and drank it.
Cleopatra drank wine with a pearl.
At the same time, the Romans used pearls to display their wealth and social status. On the other hand, the Greeks cherished pearls for their unparalleled beauty and their association with love and marriage.
The ancient Romans also saw pearls as symbols of wealth and power. During the Dark Ages, brave knights often wore pearl-adorned armor to protect them from harm during wars. Because of their high value at the time, Julius Caesar issued a law stating that only rulers could wear pearl-adorned clothing.
In China, the first records of the origin of pearls date back to 2300 BCE. In the ancient East Asian culture, these gems were seen as a symbol of purity and wealth, which could help to live a long life. In addition, they played a special role in Chinese spirituality, as they were believed to protect against evil and bring good fortune.
Only high society people and rulers of Rome and China were allowed to wear pearls.
How Do Oysters Make Pearls?
Beyond the origin of pearls, their formation process is also fascinating. This captivating natural phenomenon occurs inside mollusks such as oysters or mussels, according to the following process:
Intrusion of Foreign Objects and the Formation of Mother-of-Pearl
It all starts when a foreign body, such as a parasite, a grain of sand or another irritant, enters the shell. These intruders irritate the soft tissues of the oysters or mussels, which then react to protect themselves.
The mollusks feel uncomfortable and begin to cover the irritant with a shiny substance called "mother-of-pearl." Mother-of-pearl is a composite material made of calcium carbonate and a protein called conchiolin. To neutralize the foreign object, the oyster continually secretes mother-of-pearl around it. Over time, more and more layers of mother-of-pearl build up, and a pearl is formed.
Pearl Development and Harvesting
The process of secretion and deposition of nacre can last many years. The more layers there are, the more beautiful the pearl will be. The color of a pearl depends on the coloring agents present in the nacre as well as environmental factors.
The speed at which a pearl grows depends on a variety of factors, including the species of mollusk, its living environment, and the weather. Once the pearl reaches its full size, producers harvest it. Then, these mature pearls are made into necklaces, earrings, and rings.
The transformation of a tiny grain of sand into a sparkling pearl is proof of the power of nature and the magic of time. This is why pearls are among the most precious gems in the world.
The formation of pearls is the most miraculous natural phenomenon.
What Makes A Pearl Black?
Have you ever wondered why some pearls are a mysterious black? It is a truly fascinating mystery in the creation of pearls. Today, black pearls are among the rarest and most valuable. Although they are called "black pearls", they never have a completely black body. They can actually be purple, blue, brown or silver, but always with a darker hue.
Unlike other pearls, a black pearl acquires its dark color thanks to the unique natural elements involved in its creation. Regarding the origin of black pearls, they are formed inside a specific species of mollusk, namely the black-lipped oyster, Pinctada Margaritifera, or the Tahitian oyster.
This species of oyster naturally produces nacre with dark pigmentation, giving rise to the charming black pearls. However, not all Pinctada Margaritifera oysters are capable of creating black pearls, making the cultivation and harvesting of these pearls particularly difficult.
To achieve the desired nacre thickness of at least 0.8 mm, the process of cultivating a black pearl requires between 18 and 24 months. The longer a pearl remains in the oyster, the more lustrous and valuable it will be. In fact, it is not only Tahitian oysters that can produce black pearls, other types of oysters can do so as well. If an oyster that usually forms white pearls has an exceptionally black nacre, it can also create a black pearl. However, this occurrence is extremely rare, with approximately one in 10,000 black pearls.
When it comes to the origin of black pearls, French Polynesia pioneered their cultivation in the mid-1960s and still dominates the global market today. It alone produces an impressive 97% of the world's black pearls, while the Cook Islands and Kiribati contribute the remaining 3%.
Black pearls are not actually “black.”
Comparing Different Types of Pearls
Depending on the cultivation method, there are two main types of pearls: natural and cultured. Natural pearls form naturally inside oysters without human intervention. In contrast, cultured pearls are created with the help of farmers, who implant foreign bodies, usually a small piece of shell, into the oysters to stimulate the development of nacre.
Today, cultured pearls are more common and easily accessible. With human intervention and well-planned breeding, we can produce high-quality pearls in different shapes and sizes. There are currently four most popular types of cultured pearls: Akoya pearls, freshwater pearls, Tahitian pearls, and South Sea pearls.
Akoya pearls
Akoya pearls are one of the timeless classic cultured pearls. Their name comes from the origin of pearls. In 1893, a Japanese man experimentally created a pearl in the Akoya oyster, also called Pinctada Fucata. This was also the first successful pearl culture, revolutionizing the global jewelry industry.
This cultured pearl is famous for its flawless appearance and exceptional luster. Coco Chanel used Akoya pearls to create European women's accessories. Since then, Akoya pearl necklaces have become an iconic fashion for European high society in the 1920s.
Akoya pearls
- Growing Regions : Currently grown in saltwater farms in Japan, China, Vietnam and Australia.
- Colors : From white to cream to pale pink.
- Size : Small, it varies from 2 to 10 mm.
- Shape : Round or almost round.
Freshwater pearls
Freshwater pearls, as their name suggests, are formed in oysters living in fresh water, such as rivers, lakes and ponds. This distinctive growing environment creates a special surface texture and warm luster for these pearls.
Although they are not as lustrous as Akoya pearls, they are preferred due to their higher culture productivity. On average, a freshwater oyster can produce 50 pearls, while saltwater pieces only generate one or two. Thus, freshwater pearls are affordable options for tighter budgets.
Freshwater pearls
- Growing Regions : Mainly grown in China, Japan and the United States.
- Colors : Besides white, they come in pastel shades like lavender and pink.
- Size : Varies from 2 to 15 mm.
- Shape : They come in various shapes, ranging from round to oval, even baroque (irregular shapes).
Tahitian pearls
As mentioned earlier, Tahitian pearls are glamorous due to their natural dark hue. The origin of Tahitian pearls and the stories surrounding them make them one of the most sought-after gems in the world.
Eugénie de Montijo, the last Empress of France, was one of the first to wear Tahitian pearl accessories. Since then, black pearls have become a fashion trend among European royalty throughout the 1800s.
It is the second most valuable cultured pearl in the world, much more expensive than Akoya and freshwater pearls. Today, a delicate Tahitian pearl necklace can be worth up to $4,000.
Tahitian pearls
- Growing regions : Cultivated mainly in French Polynesia, the Cook Islands and Kiribati.
- Colors : Dark tones of charcoal gray, silver, blue, purple or green.
- Size : They are among the largest pearls, with sizes ranging from 8 to 18 mm.
- Shape : Round, almost round, teardrop or baroque.
South Sea Pearls
The South Sea pearl is a saltwater pearl produced by the Pinctada Maxima oyster. It is the largest sea oyster, living mainly in the South Pacific Ocean. This is why South Sea pearls are much larger than other pearls.
However, the success rate of South Sea pearl cultivation is low, only 10-15%, with a cultivation period of 4-5 years. Therefore, these pearls are considered the "queen" of classic cultured pearls.
South Sea Pearls
- Growing Regions : Grown in saltwater regions of Australia, Myanmar, the Philippines and Indonesia.
- Colors : Their main colors are gold and white. Their natural golden sheen and exceptionally thick mother-of-pearl layer give them a luxurious and sparkling appearance.
- Size : Varies from 10 to 20 mm.